Call Sutherlands Organic Solutions 401-764-0740/ http://www.soslawn.com/ info@soslawn.com
The information below is about the product we use for our Insect Control Sprays. It is a natural product and is not harmful to pets, children or adults.
Essentria IC3 is an all -Natural Insecticide with ingredients that kills crawling and
flying insects on contact and creates a barrier that repels others.
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS:
Rosemary Oil……………………………………………………………………………..………….10.00%
Geraniol………………………………………………………………………………………………….5.00%
Peppermint Oil…………………………………………………………………………………………2.00%
OTHER INGREDIENTS:
Wintergreen Oil, White Mineral Oil, Vanillin, Polyglycerol Oleate………………83.00%
Total:…………………………………………………………………………………………….…. 100.00%
For more information on Essentria IC3 please visit our website for material safety and data sheet Or ENVINCIO website below for the full disclosure of product label information.

“We are a lawncare company committed to helping your lawn look its best and our earth help itself.”
Our materials are environmentally safe for families and pets
1. Early Spring Fertilizer with Crabgrass Prevention
2. Late Spring Fertilizer with Crabgrass Prevention/Summer Weed Control
3. Early Summer Fertilizer – Grub & Insect Prevention with Summer Weed Control
4. Late Summer – Double Service (Lime & Fertilizer) with Summer Weed Control
5. Early Fall Fertilizer with Summer/Fall Weed Control
6. Late Fall – Double Service (Lime & Fertilizer) with Summer/Fall Weed Control
Fall Core Aeration & Over-Seeding (Recommended)
Natural Insect Spray Essentria IC3 (As Requested Only)
1. Early Spring Fertilizer Only
2. Late Spring Fertilizer Only
3. Early Summer Fertilizer Only
4. Late Summer – Double Service (Lime & Fertilizer)
5. Early Fall Fertilizer Only
6. Late Fall – Double Service (Lime & Fertilizer)
Fall Core Aeration & Over-Seeding (Highly Recommended)
Natural Insect Spray Essentria IC3 (As Requested Only)
Licensed in MA, CT RI and comply with all state regulation

Option 1:
1. Lay down sheets of newspaper over the invasive grass/weeds. Make the newspaper barrier around four sheets thick for the best results. Leave room around the bases of the flowers in the flower bed. If you don’t have a lot of newspaper lying around, try getting some at your local recycling plant.
2. Wet the sheets of newspaper with a hose. Get them wet enough that they won’t blow away in the wind. Getting the newspapers wet will also help them decompose faster, which will be good for your flower bed.
3. Add a three-inch (7.6 cm) layer of mulch over the newspaper. You can use any type of mulch, like shredded wood chips, leaves, or compost.
4. Pull out any grass/weeds that manages to grow through the newspaper. If you don’t want to pull out the grass/weeds by hand, try using an herbicide to kill the grass/weeds and stop it from spreading.
5. Repeat the process every year to prevent new grass/weeds from growing. Lay down more newspaper, smothering any existing grass/weeds in the flower bed, and add a fresh layer of mulch.
Option 2:
1. Pour boiling water onto the grass/weeds. One natural way to kill your grass/weeds only requires water. Fill a pot with water and bring it to a boil on the stove. Then, carefully carry the pot to the flower bed and pour the water directly onto the grass/weeds. Be extremely cautious when handling the water, as it can burn you if you spill it on yourself. Do not pour any hot water onto your flowers, or you may accidentally kill them as well. Refill the pot with water and boil it if you don’t cover all of the grass/weeds with the first pot of water.
2. Spray a vinegar mixture onto the grass/weeds. To create a natural vinegar mixture that should be able to kill your grass/weeds, mix together 1 gallon (3.8 l) of white vinegar and 1 cup (240 ml) of table or rock salt. Stir in 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of dish soap and pour the mixture into the body of a garden sprayer. Spray your unwanted grass/weeds directly with the sprayer.
3. Cover the grass/weeds in lemon juice. Lemon juice is another chemical-free option that may be able to kill your grass/weeds. Douse the grass/weeds in lemon juice and then check on the grass/weeds after 1-2 days. By this time, the grass/weeds should be mostly dead. If not, repeat the process until you’ve achieved your desired results.
https://www.wikihow.com/Kill-Grass-Invading-a-Flower-Bed
Co-authored by: Maggie Moran

We do hope all is well with you and yours. 😊
Winter is coming to an end and Spring is right around the corner. We would like to touch base with a friendly reminder, we will be starting up our Lawncare Services in late March, or early April depending on the weather conditions.
Please give us a call or e-mail this Spring if you are interested in Lawncare this Season. Once we receive your request, we will schedule a time for our Lawn Service Manager to come out to your property and provide you with an Estimate. Once the Estimate has been completed he will leave the Lawn Analysis and Estimate with you for your review.
You do not need to be at the property for the Estimate. If no one is home at the time of the Estimate the Service Manager will leave the Estimate either at your door or in your mailbox. If for any reason you cannot find the Estimate that has been left behind please e-mail or call the office, we will be able to provide you with a copy of the Estimate.
Our time frame for an Estimate to be completed is no longer than a week but depending on weather and scheduling you might see us sooner.
• Our Fertilizer is Organic Based
• Our Pesticide is a Natural Product
• Our Weed Control is a low Toxicity Chemical. Therefore, the Weed Control is only applied where needed on the property. We never do a blanket application unless requested by homeowner. (Our Weed Control is only strong enough to kill weeds not grass.) The material only needs 3 hours of drying time then it is safe for adults, children and pets to be on the property.
• Our Grub Prevention is a low Toxicity Chemical . This application is only applied once throughout the Season and this is the only application we ask you to water in once it has been completed. (Our Grub Prevention is so low in toxicity that its only strong enough to dissolve the beetle egg, not the actual grub.)
If you would like to join our program please let us know ,we would be happy begin working with your property and making it enjoyable for you and your family throughout the Summer months.
Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Word Press Blog! Our purpose is to reach customers and friends to share important tips and facts about lawncare Do’s and Don’ts and much more.
Thank you for giving us the opportunity to serve you. You are a valued customer, and we will always do everything possible to ensure your satisfaction.
Licensed in MA, CT RI and comply with all state regulations
Do you still have snow piles on your lawn?
If you do, you are in great company! Most of us still have snow lingering on our lawns and while the temperatures are slowly beginning to rise the snow remains.
Did you know that piles of snow can create snow mold on your lawn? Snow mold is a sneaky disease that damages your grass after the snow melts.
While, there is no way to entirely prevent snow mold from growing on your lawn, there is one essential step you can take that can help lessen the possibility of snow mold becoming an issue on your lawn this Spring.
If you have snow piles on your lawn, spread the snow out evenly throughout your lawn. This important step will not only help the snow melt faster but it will decrease your chance of snow mold.
SNOW MOLD
“Snow mold, also known as snow rot, is a lawn disease that thrives under snow or wet leaves during the winter months. It can have a grayish or pinkish color and take on a web-like appearance. Snow mold occurs when too much snow stays on the ground for extended periods of time. The longer the snow sticks around or the wet leaves are left in place, the more it spreads. As the temperatures begin to warm up snow mold will likely go away on its own. If not, you’ll need to rake the area and reseed any bare spots.” (www.lowes.com)